ucked away within the lush expanse of the Buxa Tiger Reserve, south of the Bhutan-India border, lies Lepchakha—a trio of villages where Bhutanese culture flourishes unabated despite their Indian citizenship. Overlooking the sweeping plains of West Bengal, Lepchakha embodies the essence of a traditional Bhutanese settlement, offering a unique glimpse into a community where borders blur in the name of heritage.
Known by different names across regions—Lepchakha to Indians, Lhaptsakha to Nepalese, and Tashigang by the locals—the community spans three villages: Tashigang, Dashigang, and Pasakha. Each village proudly hosts its own Lhakhang, a place of worship that serves as a cornerstone for Bhutanese religious and cultural practices.
The Drukpas, as the residents are known, celebrate Bhutanese festivals such as Chunipa Losar, Lomba, and Thruebab, alongside observing religious holidays celebrated in Bhutan. This deep-rooted adherence to Bhutanese customs creates an environment where visitors might easily forget they are on Indian soil. During a recent visit to Dashigang, villagers were seen gathered for the serto (golden pinnacle) ceremony, marking the construction of a new Lhakhang. Monks conducted rituals and prayers, followed by a communal lunch, highlighting the community’s dedication to their traditions.
Tsenda Gyaltshen, a Dashigang villager and caretaker of the lhakhang, shared insights into their enduring cultural practices. “Our language, food, and attire are the same as in Bhutan. We have been living this way ever since my parents and grandparents’ time,” he explained, his words carrying the melodic tones of the Ngalop dialect.
Adding to the historical tapestry of Lepchakha is an ancient trail near Dashigang, believed to have been constructed by the British centuries ago to facilitate access to Bhutan. This trail once led directly to Sinchula in Bhutan and is said to have been the route used by Bhutanese lords for their travels between the two nations, underscoring the longstanding connections that transcend modern borders.
The vibrancy of Lepchakha was particularly evident on November 4 last year, when the community of Tashigang gathered at their lhakhang to celebrate the descending day of Lord Buddha. Tashigang has emerged as a major tourist attraction, drawing visitors from all over India eager to experience the Drukpas’ unique cultural and spiritual practices. As locals prepared traditional food, burned pine leaves, and offered prayers, tourists were afforded a rare and authentic glimpse into a way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.
Tourism has become a lifeline for the Drukpa community, providing vital income and fostering economic growth. Several homestays operate in Tashigang, catering to the steady influx of visitors. Phuntsho, a homestay owner, noted a significant rise in tourism since 2012. “Before tourism, we depended on oranges for income, but now the community benefits in various ways. Some run homestays, others have shops, and some work as porters to assist tourists,” he said, dressed in the traditional Gho.
The tourism season peaks from September to May, aligning with the favorable weather and vibrant festival calendar. However, during the four-month period when the Buxa Tiger Reserve restricts activities, including jungle safaris, homestay operations are temporarily halted, prompting the community to adapt and prepare for the next peak season.
The precise delineation of the Bhutan-India border remains a topic of intrigue for the Drukpa community, many of whom jest that they were simply “left behind” when the boundaries were drawn. Despite the ambiguity, the Drukpas of Lepchakha remain steadfast in preserving their Bhutanese heritage, maintaining their cultural identity across national lines.
As tourism continues to grow, the villages of Lepchakha stand as living embodiments of cultural resilience, offering a sanctuary where Bhutanese traditions thrive amidst the Indian landscape. Their story is a testament to the enduring power of heritage and the seamless blending of identities across borders.
