In a bustling workshop nestled in Chubachu, Thimphu, a quiet revolution is underway—a campaign to resurrect a centuries-old symbol of Bhutanese culture. Traditional boots known as tshoglam, once ubiquitous in Bhutan’s ceremonial and daily life, were on the brink of extinction by the late 1990s. Now, thanks to the dedicated efforts of master bootmaker Jangchubla, this iconic craft is experiencing a vibrant renaissance.
At 48 years old, Jangchubla stands among the few artisans who have kept the ancient bootmaking tradition alive. Originally a painting student at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, Bhutan’s premier institution for traditional arts, his career took an unexpected turn when he witnessed the rapid decline of skilled tshoglam craftsmen. Recognizing the urgency of the situation, influential leader Lyonpo Sangay Ngedup arranged for him to apprentice with veteran bootmaker Ap Wangdi in Paro—a formative experience that would change his life.
Determined to master every nuance of the craft, Jangchubla journeyed beyond Bhutan’s borders to Binnaguri in West Bengal, India. There, he absorbed innovative techniques from local shoemakers, further enriching his expertise. In 2002, armed with little more than passion and modest resources, he established Traditional Boot House—a venture born out of a dream to safeguard a fading heritage.
The early days were anything but easy. “We only had a few tailoring machines, and sourcing leather and soles was both challenging and costly,” Jangchubla recalls. Yet, despite these hardships, his commitment to quality and cultural authenticity soon earned his workshop a reputation for excellence. Today, Traditional Boot House employs 13 skilled workers, many of whom are proud graduates of the National Institute for Zorig Chusum and beneficiaries of Jangchubla’s personal training.
Running the family business alongside his wife, Thinlay Wangmo, the artisan has not only revived an endangered tradition but also diversified his enterprise. His workshop now crafts boots for ceremonial events, cultural functions, and official needs while expanding its repertoire to include school shoes, intricate embroidery, and even customized name tags for organizations such as the Desuung.
Innovation has also played a critical role in the evolution of tshoglam. In 2008, Jangchubla introduced a modern twist—a half-length design adorned with contemporary elements like heels and chains—to bridge the gap between tradition and practicality. “Our aim is to make these boots as comfortable as everyday shoes without compromising the meticulous craftsmanship that defines them,” he explains.
Never one to rest on his laurels, Jangchubla has ventured to destinations including Thailand, Delhi, and Denmark to explore new materials and techniques. His groundbreaking work even caught the eye of international curators, earning a prestigious showcase at Denmark’s Moesgaard Museum in 2019 and placing Bhutanese bootmaking on the global cultural map.
Technological improvements have bolstered production as well. What once took days to complete now sees over 20 pairs of boots emerging from the workshop each day. However, the artisan acknowledges that challenges persist. High-quality raw materials remain scarce, and the influx of mass-produced footwear continues to pressure traditional crafts. Meanwhile, shifting consumer tastes add another layer of complexity.
Despite these hurdles, Jangchubla’s resolve is unwavering. “For me, tshoglam is more than just footwear—it embodies our national identity, resilience, and the spirit of adaptation,” he asserts.
Traditional Boot House now stands as a beacon of how heritage can evolve without losing its soul. Through mentoring aspiring artisans, Jangchubla ensures that the legacy of Bhutan’s bootmaking tradition will endure for generations to come. “Every pair of boots we create carries a story—one that connects Bhutan’s storied past with its promising future,” he concludes.
In an era marked by rapid modernization, Jangchubla’s work is a poignant reminder that the preservation of cultural heritage is not only possible but also vital to a nation’s identity.
