From the quiet hills of Genye Gewog in Thimphu, a group of dedicated mask dancers is travelling across districts to ensure that some of Bhutan’s rarest sacred dances do not fade into history. Rooted in centuries-old spiritual practice, the mask dancers of Chizhi Goenpa continue to play a vital role in preserving a distinctive strand of the country’s cultural heritage.
Their most recent performance marked the conclusion of a three-day festival known as Dawa Wang, held at Dawakha Chiwog under Toedwang Gewog in Punakha. The festival drew large crowds as nearly 20 dancers took to the ground, presenting a range of mask dances. Alongside familiar tshechu performances, the dancers showcased rare and dramatic sacred dances depicting the lives of Chhogyal Norzang and Yethro Lham—rituals seldom performed outside Chizhi Goenpa.
While some communities believe they could train local performers to take on these roles, many still choose to invite the Chizhi Goenpa dancers. Residents say the presence of the original lineage holders brings a deeper spiritual meaning to the festival.
“In the past, four great religious masters came to Bhutan, and one of them arrived at Chizhi Goenpa,” said a resident of Dawakha. “He introduced the steps and rituals of these mask dances. The sacred dungchen at Chizhi Goenpa is also a treasured relic. When the dancers come to our village and perform, we feel spiritually fulfilled. If the tradition stops, there is a high chance it will disappear because we are not prepared to perform it ourselves. That is why we invite them once every three years.”
Although there are no written records clearly explaining how these sacred dances spread across regions, villagers say the traditions have been passed down orally through generations. For them, the festival is not mere entertainment but a powerful ritual believed to promote peace, harmony and protection from negative forces.
The same group of dancers is scheduled to perform next month in Wangdue Phodrang, continuing a circuit that also includes communities in Dagana. Host villages collectively raise funds to cover daily wages and basic needs for the performers during their stay.
For the dancers, the journeys are both demanding and rewarding. “We feel proud to showcase our skills and share what we have learned from our elders,” said one dancer from Genye Gewog. “The communities support us, and we try our best to perform exactly as the tradition has been passed down to us.”
Another dancer acknowledged the sacrifices involved. “Sometimes our personal work is affected when we travel, but we always remind ourselves that we are performing for other communities. We make sure to dance with the same dedication as we do at home.”
Local residents say inviting the Chizhi Goenpa dancers also eases the burden on their own communities, as they do not need to train or maintain resident performers. More importantly, they believe the rituals help safeguard the spiritual well-being of the village.
“When the lam visits, blesses the community, and we offer alms, it wards off negativity and harmful forces,” said a resident. “It is one of our most important rituals and helps preserve our religious and cultural traditions.”
Today, the mask dancers of Chizhi Goenpa continue to perform in Punakha, Wangdue Phodrang and Dagana, carrying sacred stories and rituals from one valley to another. For many Bhutanese communities, their presence is a reminder that culture endures not by standing still, but by travelling, sharing and renewing itself with each generation.
