At over 3,500 meters above sea level, the hidden valleys of Merak and Sakteng remain some of Bhutan’s most enchanting yet remote destinations. These breathtaking regions, nestled in the eastern reaches of the country, have been home to the Brokpas for centuries.
Originally from Tsona in southern Tibet, the Brokpas, a semi-nomadic ethnic group, sought refuge in these isolated valleys after their displacement. Today, the Brokpas continue to live a life deeply rooted in tradition, herding yaks, weaving textiles, and celebrating the rhythms of nature that govern their existence.
The valleys of Merak and Sakteng are not just geographically stunning but culturally rich. The Brokpas are an integral part of this remote corner of Bhutan, with their distinctive customs, attire, and festivals. Living in harmony with the land, they follow a seasonal migration, moving their herds between the lower valleys in winter and the higher pastures in summer. Life here revolves around a deep respect for nature and a centuries-old connection to the mountains.
A Glimpse into the brokpas’ way of life
Merak and Sakteng offer travelers an authentic glimpse into the traditional life of the Brokpas. Their attire, woven from yak hair, reflects both their resourcefulness and their connection to the land. Men typically wear a black hat with five long fringes, while women adorn themselves with colorful ribbons and aprons that reach their knees. Both genders are fond of jewelry, with necklaces made from semi-precious stones and strands of coral and cat’s eye.
Women in the region are particularly renowned for their singing, often performing songs dedicated to gods, goddesses, and the themes of nature, youth, and old age. It’s not uncommon to hear their lilting voices echoing through the valleys as they celebrate festivals and daily life. Like the rest of Bhutan, the Brokpas have a deep love for archery, and the sport remains an essential part of their culture, practiced with great skill.
The Jomo Kuengkhar Festival
Each autumn, Merak and Sakteng come alive with the vibrancy of the Jomo Kuengkhar festival. This two-day celebration honors the mountain goddess Jomo Kuengkhar, who is believed to bring prosperity to the region.
The festival is an occasion for the Brokpas to seek her blessings and showcase their unique traditions. A highlight of the festivities is the annual naked terchaam dances, where the herders don nothing but the spirit of celebration as they perform traditional dances to honor their deities.
The Ache Lhamo dances, another cultural gem of the festival, add a burst of color and movement, offering visitors a rare chance to witness Bhutanese culture in its most authentic form.
Nature’s wonders: The Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary
Beyond its cultural richness, the region is also a sanctuary for nature lovers. The Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary, a protected area dedicated to preserving the habitat of the elusive yeti, or migoi, is one of the few places in the world where the creature is believed to roam.
The rugged, mountainous terrain of the sanctuary is home to a diverse array of flora and fauna, including the rare blue poppy, Bhutan’s national flower, which bursts into vibrant color during the spring months. For trekkers, the sanctuary provides an unforgettable experience of Bhu-tan’s wild beauty, with its dense forests, pristine rivers, and alpine meadows.
Getting to Merak and Sakteng is an adventure in itself. After landing at Paro, a scenic drive will take you through the capital, Thimphu, and into the central valley of Bumthang. From there, you will journey further east to Trashigang, the gateway to the eastern regions. An overnight stay in Trashigang sets you up for the final leg of the journey: a dirt road that leads from Radhi village to Merak, a 40-kilometer stretch that takes about three hours to navigate.
For those wishing to explore Sakteng, the most common approach is from Merak. A full day’s trek will bring you to Miksa Teng, a riverside campground, followed by a pleasant three-hour walk through the woods to reach Sakteng. The trek is an immersive way to connect with the untouched landscapes and the remote way of life that defines this region. You can also now drive to Sakteng.
