The sacred site of Kangpar Chenla Ney is drawing a growing stream of devotees, even as its rugged remoteness poses a test of endurance for all who journey here. Revered as “High Mountain” and believed to have been sanctified by the 8th-century master Guru Rinpoche, the rocky outcrop was rediscovered around 1625 by the yogi Drupwang Drakpa Gyeltshen, known to locals as Drupthob Khejay.
Over recent springs and autumns, nearly 800 pilgrims have braved an arduous seven-hour trek from the last motorable point in Trashigang Dzongkhag, cutting through dense fir and rhododendron forests and navigating steep, unbridged ravines. Their purpose is manifold: to receive blessings, to witness the sun’s first rays breaking over the Eastern Himalaya, and to experience the unspoiled grandeur of Chenla Ney’s clifftop shrine.
Yet, the journey’s spiritual rewards have been tempered by practical hardships. Visitors have long contended with the absence of even the most basic amenities—no permanent shelter to protect against mountain chills, no reliable drinking water beyond an unpredictable spring, and no sanitary facilities to serve the swelling numbers of pilgrims.
In response, the Trashigang district administration, backed by a Nu. 6.5 million grant from the Global Environment Facility, has launched a comprehensive infrastructure upgrade. Work is already underway to widen and reinforce the existing mule track, install a modest guesthouse and kitchen block, construct pit toilets at key points along the trail, and lay down piping for an assured supply of potable water.
“Until now, the uneven trail would jolt our pack animals and often spill valuable luggage,” explained Sonam Tobgay, whose family has provided courier services to Chenla Ney for generations. “The improvements will shave off two to three hours of travel and spare our horses—and our guests—a lot of discomfort.”
Chezang Dorji, another resident porter, highlighted the need for water security: “Even the spring above the campsite can run dry. If we have a permanent water line, everyone—from our mothers carrying offerings to the aging pilgrims—will benefit.”
District officials aim to complete all works by the close of the current financial year. Once finished, the project is expected not only to safeguard the welfare of pilgrims but also to stimulate eco-tourism, inviting visitors to explore the region’s cultural heritage and natural beauty in greater comfort.
For those who make the ascent, Chenla Ney remains more than a destination—it is a place where legend and landscape converge, offering a glimpse of Bhutan’s enduring spirit, even as modern improvements ensure that the path to enlightenment no longer comes at the expense of basic human dignity.
