Nestled high in the mountains, Laya hosted the Royal Highland Festival (RHF) on October 23rd and 24th, an event that has become a cherished celebration of the region’s vibrant culture and natural beauty. This year’s festival was not just an exploration of heritage but a showcase of the improvements and opportunities brought to this remote community since the festival’s inception in 2016, under the command of His Majesty the King.
The journey to Laya begins at Taktsemakha, a point accessible by vehicle after a two-hour drive from Gasa. From there, visitors must traverse a two-hour uphill walk to reach the village. This trek offers a glimpse of Laya’s breathtaking landscapes—towering, snow-capped mountains and a turquoise river that mirrors the surrounding wilderness. The path, lined with ancient trees, welcomes visitors, guiding them towards the heart of the highland celebration.
Arriving in Laya, guests are greeted not only by the village’s charm but also by its warm hospitality. Following a local tradition, hosts meet their guests midway with tea and snacks, ensuring that every arrival feels special. This warmth sets the tone for the festival experience, offering a sense of community and welcome that defines Layap culture.
Contrary to some expectations of rural life, Laya’s infrastructure reveals a village that is both traditional and modern. Well-laid concrete footpaths, clean sanitation facilities, and neatly arranged traditional homes demonstrate the community’s commitment to improving living standards. These developments are, in part, attributed to the annual influx of visitors during the RHF, which has become a crucial driver of socio-economic progress in the area.
According to a study by the Centre for Bhutan and GNH Studies, the festival has had a significant positive impact on the local economy. Homestays, which have become a primary income source for many villagers, now offer improved hygiene and sanitation standards. Some highlanders reported earning between Nu 30,000 and Nu 50,000 from homestay services during the festival season, while others earned around Nu 25,000 to Nu 30,000 from porter services.
On the morning of October 23rd, festival-goers set out early for Langothang, the festival venue located more than 4,100 meters above sea level. The one-hour uphill trek from the village can be challenging, but the breathtaking views and vibrant atmosphere make the effort worthwhile. Over 2,000 people gathered this year, including both locals and tourists, eager to experience the celebration of highland culture.
The festival grounds are adorned with traditional woolen tents, each showcasing products and cultures from ten yak-rearing districts of Bhutan. Amidst the brisk mountain air, the presence of His Majesty The King added a sense of pride and excitement to the occasion. Highlanders marched proudly with their yaks, horses, and mastiffs, all adorned in bells and vibrant fabrics. The air was alive with music, laughter, and the rich display of highlanders in traditional attire, with women draped in coral beads and centuries-old amulets.
Research indicates that nature and cultural exploration are the primary motivations for attendees, with 43 percent of participants citing nature as their main reason for visiting and 35 percent wanting to immerse themselves in the highland way of life. However, the festival’s current setup could benefit from featuring more Layap products to better represent the local community.
As the festival drew to a close, the Laya Middle Secondary School ground was transformed into a lively hub of music and dance, with traditional hits blending with international tunes. The scene was both joyous and surreal, as even John Denver’s Country Roads echoed through the mountains, uniting highlanders and tourists alike in celebration. The evening concluded with the song Yar Le Aae, a tribute to the land, its people, and their yaks.
Despite the success of this year’s event, there are recommendations to further enhance the RHF experience. The Centre for Bhutan and GNH Studies suggests incorporating incense-offering rituals, commercializing local incense, expanding livestock exhibitions, and showcasing traditional artifacts. Additionally, training in hospitality and cooking could help address some of the common challenges faced by the community.
As Laya continues to grow and evolve with the influence of the festival, it is essential to strike a balance between development and preserving its authentic highland experience. The road connection, though beneficial, might best end at Taktsemakha to maintain the trekking adventure that has become a hallmark of visiting this beautiful region.
With the RHF now concluded for the year, Laya’s residents look forward to the continued transformation and opportunities that this celebration brings. The spirit of Laya shines not only through its mountains and rivers but through the people who warmly welcome visitors to share in their rich cultural heritage.
